As John Galliano, former Dior head designer, said in an interview with the Telegraph, “A Gruau sketch captures the energy, the sophistication and daring of Dior.” The originals, of course, are now coveted collector’s items.Ī provocatively named scent deserves an over-the-top treatment. The illustrator’s iconic ads for the French luxury fashion maison never fail to captivate me. But he is most well-known for his bold ads for Dior from the 1940s to 1990s. The Italian-born illustrator worked for many high-profile clients, including Balmain, Givenchy and Schiaperelli. Are you ready for a dose of good ol’ nostalgia? Which are your favourite perfume ads? And your worst? RENE GRUAU FOR DIOR And sexy often means what you don’t show.īelow are some of my favourite perfume ads through the decades. Intertwined couples staring into the distance, because there ain’t no chemistry. Square-jawed man staring intently/creepily at you. Woman draped around a bottle for dear life. Or is it the clichéd imagery? Take your pick from any one of the following scenarios. I’ve lost count of the variations on this theme. Perhaps it’s the standard, supposedly sexy voiceover in husky overtones. What is it about so many perfume ads that makes them cringe-worthy or unintentionally hilarious? WORK OF ART: René Gruau for Dior Diorissimo. The overall addictive sensation of Light Blue Forever, shaped around warm and multisensorial notes, is more universal, without crossing into gourmand territory. You have to balance the original with new elements to create a new story. It’s always a challenge to rework a classic. You have to balance the original with new elements to create a new story.” “It’s always a challenge to rework a classic. However, I don’t start from scratch because I must work from the original Light Blue. When we got the marketing brief from D&G, I did have carte blanche. Did you have carte blanche in its creation, or was it a tight brief? While there are still the lemony apple notes, the main accord is the orange blossom which brings strength, modernity, solar luminosity and warmth. I wanted to make it very luminous and solar, inspired by the Mediterranean Sea and the orange blossoms found all along the coast. įinally, I used the latest generation of woods and musks to elevate and anchor the sparkling notes of the fragrance, enveloping the Light Blue signature with a contemporary sensual touch. There’s something about Italy and, in particular, Sicily, a place of importance to the Dolce & Gabbana creators. Its popularity is linked with its luminosity and freshness. Timeless and contemporary, Light Blue has adapted to every generation over time. It’s an immense pleasure and honour to translate that concept into a fragrance that represents all that love is: the first look, kiss and moments together, as well as the milestones that come later: anniversaries, children and grandchildren. “It’s an immense pleasure and honour to translate that concept into a fragrance that represents all that love is.” It did when I first created Light Blue in 2001 and it continues to mesmerise me today. I am a romantic at heart eternal love has always enchanted me. The fragrance’s concept is universal: love. I’m very proud to have created Light Blue. He talks to Fragroom about Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue’s popularity, powerful formula and the latest iteration, Light Blue Forever.Ĭongratulations on the 20 th anniversary of Light Blue. And let’s not forget the ground-breaking Mugler Angel, which kick-started all things gourmand in 1992.Ĭresp was recognised for his numerous accomplishments when The Fragrance Foundation gave him the Lifetime Achievement Award in 2018. The French master perfumer has produced hits such as Givenchy Ange ou Demon (2006), Penhaligon’s Juniper Sling (2011), Versace Eros Pour Femme (2014) and YSL Mon Paris (2016). Launched in 2001, its evocation of the sun, sea and sensuality of a southern Italy summer has been a huge commercial success for the luxury fashion brand.Ī large part of its success is down to the expertise of Olivier Cresp. Even those with only a passing interest in fragrance will have heard of Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue.
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